Levi’s vintage denim just never goes out of style. It’s iconic.
From the red tab on the back pocket to the gold rivets, you can spot Levi’s vintage denim a mile off. But how much do you know about the brand itself? And the men who set it up? Potentially not much if you’re sitting here reading this.
Well, get ready to be in the know. We’re going to take you way back to 1872, when Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis came up with an idea that changed denim forever (excuse the dramatics).
Setting the scene: It’s the late 1800s, we’re in San Francisco and the California Gold Rush is going strong.
Levi Strauss is a Bavarian immigrant who had a dry goods company in San Fran, selling all kinds of cowboy goodies like shovels, picks, lanterns, long johns and dungarees.
One of Strauss’s customers was a tailor, Jacob Davis. Davis was speaking to a female customer who complained that her husband’s pants always fell apart, especially around the pockets where he stored his tools. Davis came up with the idea of rivets to strengthen areas that are prone to strain, like the pockets and fly.
He quickly realised what a lightbulb moment this was (even though the lightbulb wasn’t actually invented yet), and he decided to patent the rivets. He then decided he needed a business partner and Levi Strauss sprung to mind, the man he had bought the denim from in the first place.
Levi, who was a pretty savvy businessman, saw the potential, agreed to the partnership and the duo obtained a patent in May 1873.
Levi’s themselves consider this date the ‘birth date’ of blue jeans. They call it 501 day.
Whilst denim pants had been around for years, the rivets changed everything.
From workers to rockers
Now the jeans were sturdy and secure, they quickly became uniform for labourers and workers who needed their clothes to last longer. The leather tab is said to be the brainchild of Strauss, who wanted to make it easy for illiterate buyers to choose Levi’s. All they had to do was ask for the pair with two horses.
Until the 1950s, Levi’s stayed in their lane. They were mainly worn as work clothing or by certain subcultures like bikers. Kids also got to enjoy the fun of Levi’s denim, but adults wearing jeans as everyday wear was a big no no.
Then things really took off. Between the 50s – 80s Levi’s spread like wildfire, with youth cultures from mods to rockers agreeing on one thing. Levi’s denim is in.
Iconic moments in Levi’s denim
The 1953 film ‘The Wild One’ played a big part in that. Marlon Brando played Johnny Strabler, the leader of a motorbike gang. And what was he wearing? Levi’s 501s and a black motorcycle jacket.
Rebel Without a Cause added more fuel to the Levi’s fire. Most of the cast were dressed in traditional 50s get-up, poodle skirts, letterman jackets and golf polos. Then you have the “Wheels”. These are the cool kids, kitted out in Levi’s denim with heartthrob James Dean at the helm.
Levi’s jeans, especially the 501s, quickly became the must-have piece for the teenage rebel.
Everyone from Marilyn Monroe to Marlon Brando and Martin Luther King Jr. have had their magic moments in Levi’s denim.
Martin Luther King Jr. used to don denim in a show of solidarity with blue collar workers.
Steve Jobs was always in his trusty 501 and turtleneck combo, presenting some of the best tech the world has ever seen.
And, last but not least, no one did denim better than Princess Di who loved a pair of 501s.
The cuts: the 411 on the 501 and it’s friends
No jean is quite as well-known as the 501, so we’ll start there.
Levi’s, and the rest of us, love the 501 jeans so much that they don’t really mess with them.
The 501s we wear today are pretty similar to what was created way back in the 1800s, just with a few improvements here and there. The 501 is Levi’s best-selling fit of all time. And, they’re just as popular on the vintage market. Vintage 501 Levi’s are probably the most sought after denim item in the world. Lucky for you, we’ve got a load of them.
Here’s a breakdown of some of the 501’s friends, to help you find your perfect fit…
Skinny jeans
- 510 – The skinny fit
Slim jeans
- 511 – The slim fit
- 513 – The slim straight fit
- 508 – The regular, tapered fit
Straight jeans
- 501 – The original straight fit
- 514 – The next straight fit
- 505 – The regular fit
- 541 – The athletic fit
Bootcut jeans
- 527 – The slim bootcut fit
Relaxed jeans
- 559 – The relaxed, straight fit
- 569 – The loose, straight fit
A word on sizing
If you’re buying vintage Levi’s, size matters.
Levi’s, and most jeans, are measured in inches. The best way to make sure your jeans will fit is to measure your waist and inside leg. This means you’ll end up with a pair of jeans that are just right—goldilocks style.
Grab a tailor tape measure that measures in inches, wrap it snugly around your waist to find your waist size.
To find your inside leg (in seam), measure from the start of your crotch to your trouser hem. Remember to keep your leg straight—don’t bend down to look at the tape!
You can also measure the rise. The rise is the distance from the top of the waistband to the seam where the crotch and legs meet.
High rise (high waist) jeans will be about 10”
Mid rise jeans will be between 8-9.5”
Low rise jeans are below 8”
If you have a pair of jeans that fit you like a glove, you can measure these instead of yourself. That way you can try to find a second pair that lives up to your standards.
For more on sizing, you can see our sizing guide.
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